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| There are many, many breeders out there. How can you tell if you are getting your puppy from a responsible one? What questions should you ask the breeder? More importantly, what answers should they be giving you? The statistics speak for themselves. Second only to irresponsible pet owners, the largest source for purbred dogs who wind up in shelters are irresponsible breeders. These breeders are not concerned with health, quality or temperament. And they certainly can't be bothered to take their dog back if for any reason you can no longer keep it. Is it any wonder why so many wind up in rescue and shelters? It benefits every puppy buyer to do their research. Learn about the breed you are looking to purchase, so that you know which specific questions to ask the breeder. Learn what the differences between Responsible Breeders, Back Yard Breeders, Commercial Breeders and Puppy Mills are. This web page is designed to help you learn how to recognize responsible from irresponsible. Dedicated breeders, who's sole purpose is to improve and preserve the breed as a whole, from those who are strictly in it to make money off their dogs. Although this information can be used universally, no matter what breed of dog you are looking to add to your family, I am including the Bulldog Club of America's Code of Ethics. This Code of Ethics is the guidline that EVERY Bulldog breeder should be following. This Code was set up to outline ways that we as breeders can establish a basis for improving not only our own dogs, but the breed as a whole. Think about the breeder you are getting your puppy from, do they seems to be following the code of ethics? On this page you will also find New Puppy Owner tips. From how to introduce puppy to kitty, to how to get puppy used to having a bath. It doesn't matter what breed of puppy you are going to get. Training and getting your puppy accustomed to life in your home can sometimes be difficult, puzzling and lots and lots of fun! Use these 30 tips to help make puppy's adjustment easier...for them AND you! |
| Checklist for the Responsible Breeder Although I've listed the "right" answers don't instantly give up if you get the "wrong" answer. If your reaction is "Sheesh, I'm just buying a dog! Why do I need to give my life history to the breeder!" the idea here is to do what you can to reduce the number of animals killed in shelters across the USA as well as getting a dog that will be healthy and the kind of pet you want. It is your ethics, you can decide one or more of these don't matter to you. They do matter to me. You want these to be "yes" 1. Were the puppies born on the premises? 2. Does the breeder insist that the puppies be at least seven weeks before being placed? 3. Did the breeder seem happy that you are asking questions? 4. Did the breeder ask you lots of questions? Questions about your lifestyle, family, experience with dogs and other pets, why you wanted a dog? Did you feel a bit like you were applying for a million dollar mortgage? 5. Did the breeder ask you whether you planned on breeding? 6. Will the breeder be available to offer advice and support for as long as you have the dog? 7. Does the breeder make you feel comfortable calling for advice? 8. Did the breeder go over some of the problems some people have with the breed? 9. Is the breeder a member of a breed club? (An organization sharing information on the breed) 10. Are the sire and dam each at least two years old? 11. Were both sire and dam tested for any genetic health problems before the breeding? 12. Does the breeder have information on the health testing of most of the immediate relatives of the sire and dam? 13. Did the breeder volunteer information on the health testing, and volunteer proof? 14. Does the breeder offer a guarantee against genetic health problems? 15. Did the breeder explain that a guarantee is not a promise that a genetic health problem won't occur, but a promise about what will happen if it does? 16. Is the guarantee at least two years long? 17. Does the guarantee allow you to keep the dog? 18. Does the guarantee allow you to choose at least a partial refund instead of another dog? 19. Is the dam a family pet (meaning does she live in the house as part of the family)? (For that matter does the breeder know what a "dam" is?) 20. Have the puppies been introduced to children? To other animals? 21. Is the breeder concerned enough about the welfare of the dog to promise to take it back (no matter how old) if you can't keep it? (Not necessarily pay you, the purpose is to avoid the shelter, ensure good placement) 22. Does the breeder believe it is important to keep in contact with puppy buyers to verify the level of success in producing a healthy dog of correct temperament? 23. Does the breeder intend to follow up on the dog as it matures and ages? 24. Does the breeder consider himself or herself a dedicated hobbyist to the breed? 25. If the breeder advertises do they focus on the important qualities such as health and temperament. You want these to be "no" 1. Did the breeder state or imply that puppies would be arriving from off premises? (e.g. shipped in soon) 2. Will the breeder agree to sell a puppy less than 7 weeks old? 3. Was the breeder reluctant to answer questions? 4. Did the breeder seem to be defensive in answering questions? 5. Does the breeder charge different prices for dogs with or without papers? 6. Did the breeder claim that his or her lines were entirely free of genetic health problems? 7. Do you feel pressured into buying a puppy? Do you feel like the breeder is trying to "sell" the puppy (as in persuading you to buy)? 8. Does the breeder promote the puppies as gifts or offer some special incentive in price to encourage a sale? 9. Does the breeder have more than two breeds available? 10. Does the breeder consider himself or herself to be a professional in the business of breeding? That is "professional" in the sense of making money, profit, or income to be distinguished from "professional" in the sense of serious, dedicated and knowledgeable.. 11. Does the breeder charge different prices depending upon the sex of the puppy? 12. If the breeder advertises do they seem to focus on superficial qualities like color or size while ignoring health testing? 13. Does the guarantee require the dog die or be euthanized because of the health problem? 14. Does the health guarantee require that you return the puppy? 15. Is the guarantee limited to a replacement puppy from the same breeder? Wow! Do all those answers really have to be "correct"? That's up to you and your standards. What I've listed is the bare minimum I would accept. There is actually a lot more I require to feel comfortable supporting a breeder. But I tried to make a list that was just "yes" or "no". However, these are merely my standards. You have to decide your own standards. If you don't think a point is important then don't require it, simple as that. The list is mainly for people who don't know about the issues in the first place. And it is for people who don't know they can demand much more than they get from a pet shop, for much less than it will cost them at a pet shop. That's the basic difference between the person who breeds for income, and the one who breeds because they love the breed. The primary concern of the first type is to avoid losing money, if they lose too much they are out of business. The primary concern of the second type is the dogs. They expect to lose money and lose lots of money. For them breeding is a passion, not a business. Please visit www.dog-play.com for this and other great information. |
| BCA CODE OF ETHICS PREAMBLE This Code of Ethics is established to set a standard of acceptable behavior for Bulldog Club of America members. The code is designed to protect the integrity of the Club and to protect and enhance our Breed. The objectives of the club as stated by the founders are: · To maintain a standard of excellence for the guidance of breeders, owners and judges. · To improve the Breed through encouragement of effort directed toward the approach to, or attainment of the degree of excellence set forth in the Standard of the Bulldog Breed. · To stimulate interest in competitive public showing of the Bulldog. · To further the interest of the Breed. · To work for the general good of breeders, owners and exhibitors of Bulldogs. It is in this spirit that the Bulldog Club of America expects adherence to the code of ethics. CODE OF ETHICS · Members of the BCA have an obligation to protect the welfare and the best interests of their breed by conducting themselves in a manner designed to reflect credit to themselves, their breed and the BCA. · Members who exhibit are expected to observe the highest standards of sportsmanship; conduct themselves in such a manner as to reflect positively on the sport of showing dogs; and exhibit goodwill at all shows and obedience trials. · Members who contemplate breeding a litter, or who allow the use of their stud dog for the same purpose shall direct their efforts toward producing dogs of quality, of even temperament, vigorous and free of health problems. They shall be familiar with the bulldog breed and its BCA/AKC approved standard and breed only those specimens which conform to it. · Members shall not engage in false or misleading advertising or misrepresentation of their breed, nor shall they malign their competition by making false or misleading statements regarding their competitors dogs, breeding practice or person. Blatant disregard for the standards set out in this code shall be considered unacceptable behavior and not supported by the Bulldog Club of America. The Code of Ethics has been reprinted from the Bulldog Club of America Web Site |
| 30 TIPS FOR NEW PUPPY OWNERS Everything You Wanted To Know About Puppies But Just Forgot To Ask Dan Karas and Shirley Greene OK, maybe not everything, but here are 30 of our best random tips for new puppy owners. They're all the things learned from experience. And, experience comes from making mistakes! Feel free to add other tips you've collected over the years. If you are a trainer, attach a business card and use this laundry list as a handout at your next puppy socialization or kindergarten class. If you are a breeder, add one to your puppy packet. And, of course, don't forget to ask your clients to share their best suggestions, too. 1. Make a puppy tote bag and take it with you whenever the pup goes along: Soft wet rag(s) in a ziplock baggie Soft dry rag(s) in a ziplock baggie Empty ziplock baggie to contain a "mess" Leash/collar or harness Treats/toy/tug/water Copy of shot record 2. Support system: Start a list of the names and numbers of experienced dog people you can call for advice, referrals or just to brag. Start this list using your breeder, veterinarian, trainer, feed store and then collect cards from "dog people" you meet during outings with your pup. 3. Is this the vet for me? For each visit, prepare one or two questions for your veterinarian. After two or three appointments, ask for a copy of your dog's records. Then, read them. If they seem complex, or if your pup has been ill, ask a knowledgeable dog-person to review them with you. If you've had the pup in for check ups and shots and the written history only lists inoculations, search for another vet. Good records should include the pup's weight, appearance, and vital signs, etc. plus any questions or concerns you've raised. A good medical history is worth its weight in gold as a future diagnostic tool. 4. Chew treats: Puppies are chewing machines. That's how they explore their world. Much like human infants, everything goes in their mouths. Especially at teething time, provide your pup with a variety of textures for chewing pleasure. Some of my favorites are: *Ice cubes - made with water or low sodium broth *Large carrots - especially nice if dipped in water and placed in the freezer *Kong toy with natural peanut butter rubbed inside - leave a little extra for the pup's exploring tongue 5. Pup meets cat: Separate the new pup from your house cat until the pup is tired. Make the initial, supervised introduction or get-acquainted visit when the pup is energy depleted. If your cat is extremely testy, consult with your veterinarian about mild sedation for the feline. 6. Be mentally present: When you can't be with the pup mentally and physically, the pup should be crated. Years ago, my 10-week old poodle managed to chew an Indian rug that was sitting under my chair - while I rubbed her back with my foot! I was physically present, but my mind was concentrating on the computer screen and not the pup's mouth. Her slurps were coming from a frozen carrot - right? Wrong! 7. Internet advice: The Internet is a great place to meet other pet owners, do research on your breed of choice, and pick up health and training tips. However, do not believe everything you read on the Internet, in books or in dog magazines. Use common sense and when in doubt, consult your veterinarian or members of your support group. 8. Puppy poop: As often as possible, especially if your pup is not totally housebroken, clean up puppy poop while it is fresh. This gives you the opportunity to check for parasites or possible foreign materials. If you notice these, blood, mucous or extremely foul odor, it's time for a trip to the veterinarian for the pup and the stool sample. 9. Not in front of the puppy: Be careful what you do around your pup. Spading weeds from your flowers may be a chore for you. However, the dog may find it's a great way to learn about digging holes. 10. Poke privileges: All family members must be able to handle any part of the pup - including feet, teeth, under the tail and genitals. From the first day your pup becomes part of your household, make certain to practice gentle handling of all body parts. 11. What's normal? To determine normal ranges for your pup's temperature and pulse, practice taking these readings. Ask your veterinarian or technician to show you the proper method of taking a rectal temperature and where to find pulse points. That way, if you pup isn't acting quite right, you have a baseline from which to judge illness. 12. Different strokes for different dogs: It is possible, and often desirable, to have different rules for different dogs living in the same household. My toy poodle is allowed on furniture. My German Shepherd Dogs are not. This isn't unfair. The rules are consistently trained and always enforced. 13. Kodak moments: Take a photo the day your bring the puppy home and weekly, thereafter, for the first year. What a great way to chart growth and create a scrapbook. An album of these pictures makes a wonderful gift from family or friends. 14. Dear diary: If the pup exhibits periodic behaviors or symptoms, begin a diary. List the day, time, symptom, what happened a few days before, etc. From skipping meals to occasional scratching, your diary can provide important information and clues to your veterinarian, as well as helping you decide when to seek professional help. This is also good for training issues. 15. One set of rules, please: Make certain all household members agree on the rules for the new puppy. From the minute your pup joins the family, everyone should be using the same command, enforcing the same boundaries and rewarding positive behavior. 16. What's the plan? What do you plan to do, long term, with your new dog? Are you going to do tracking? Agility? Schutzhund? Many of these activities require basic work, now, while the pup is young. Make a game plan and a training schedule. Start a notebook to chart your progress. 17. Just dropping by the vet: Take your pup to the vet's office just to say "hi." That way, the pup will have less animosity when its time for shots or a check up. Familiarity with the smells, sounds, etc. makes the visiting the vet more routine and less traumatic. 18. Look: isn’t that sweet? Some things you may find cute in a pup can be problems in a grown dog. A 10-week old Fido playing tug with your socks is cute. But when Fido is two years old and eating your shoes…it’s not cute; it is destructive. Stop a problem before it becomes a bad habit. 19. You ought to be in pictures: Take lots of videos of your pup when he/she is young. You’ll really appreciate this later. And, as an added bonus, reviewing the video will allow you to objectively assess not only the pup, but also your behavior while training, playing, etc. 20. Take it easy: Pups are little balls of energy. Yet, they need lots of rest. Don't set your expectations too high. Let your pup have plenty of “down time.” If you have children, make sure they understand the pup must have “time and space” to rest and be left alone. 21. Back off, kid: Kids and pups can be the greatest pals in the world, or the dog can learn to hate children. Supervise your children when they play with the pup. Make certain they never tease or torment. When the puppy has had enough play, give it "space" and a quiet place to nap. 22. Rubber ducky: Make bath time lots of fun. Get the puppy used getting wet and having a bath early on. Speak to the dog in a happy tone, rather than a soothing one. This is fun, no reason to be afraid. Heck, you may end up with a dog that tries to jump in the shower or tub with you! 23. No begging: Don't allow the puppy to get away with begging. If you don't reward the pup for this behavior now, you will not have to deal with it when company is present. Consistency, consistency, consistency. 24. Go for a walk? Soon these words will be magic. Take your pup for short walks. Exploring the world together is a terrific way to expose your pup to new experiences. But remember: they tucker-out easily, so don't overdo. 25. Stress is contagious: Puppies are sensitive to your emotions. If you are upset or having a bad day, do not introduce new commands or objects. For example, if you've had an argument with your boss and then start introducing the pup to loud noises, the pup may easily interpret the stress emanating from you to mean that loud=scary. Wait until you are in "neutral" and can be patient and encouraging. 26. Don’t push it: Puppies learn better when you don’t try to teach too much at one time. Make the sessions short and always end on a good note. Make sure the training is fun for the puppy and he/she will learn faster and will be more eager to please. If the pup is having difficulty with one exercise, end on a good note and try again another day. 27. Keep them occupied: A bored dog can be a destructive dog. Give your pup something to keep it occupied. Toys are important to stimulate a puppy's brain activity. Choose items that won’t confuse the pup. Chew toys that look like shoes are not a good idea. 28. The baby's crying: When you bring your new puppy home, try not to over-pamper it, especially the first night. Don’t run in and offer comfort or tell the pup to be quiet each time it whimpers or whines. If you do, your pup will learn that crying brings attention. Bad message. 29. Gotta go: Don’t forget that pups have to go potty more often than adult dogs. Make frequent trips outside. Also, when going outdoors, go to one area of your yard and wait for the pup to do his/her "business" before playing in other spots. This will aid in housebreaking and make clean up easier. 30. Love lasts: Your pup will be a full-grown dog before you know it. A dog is a long-term commitment. Some breeds live 15 years or longer. That adorable puppy still needs love and care when it is full-grown. If you care for your pets, they will return the love many times over. And, in closing, a few thoughts: Bringing your pup home is a wonderful, exciting time. It's the beginning of a life-long friendship. Plan to bring your pup home at a time when the household is calm and not a lot of activities are scheduled. Holidays and stress-filled periods are a "no-no." Never be afraid to ask for help. Should your pup become aggressive towards people or other animals, or exhibit any traits that make you feel uncomfortable, immediately seek help from a professional. This behavior will neither improve nor will it go away without expert evaluation and training. Be responsible. Make certain your pup knows the rules for being in public and is a welcomed member of your community. Good luck and good training! This article and more like it can be found at http://workingdogs.com |
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